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Caramelized Pears With or Without Long–Aged Balsamic Vinegar
4 servings

Pears roasted with a sweet fragrant dessert wine and a little butter becomes creamy and glazed as though they were cooked with a lot of butter, with a mellow concentrated flavor. Then I top them with ice cream and drizzle them with artisanal balsamic, for a mind boggling dessert. Don’t try to use an inferior balsamic in lieu of an long–aged artisanal one. The dessert is still delectable without any balsamic at all.

When I make this dessert, I usually open a half bottle of a good dessert wine, using some to roast the pears and serving the rest chilled with the dessert. If you don’t have a dessert wine, mix 2/3 cup dry white wine with 2 tablespoons wildflower honey for a similar effect.

4 large not–quite–ripe pears (1 1/2 pounds)
3/4 cup sweet dessert wine such as Muscat de Beaumes–de–Venise,
Sauternes, Barzac or Montbazillac, or 2/3 dry white wine blended with
2 tablespoons wildflower honey
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
Vanilla Ice Cream
Aceto Balsamic Tradizionale
from Modena or Reggio Emilia,
preferably Extra Vecchio (optional)

Preheat the oven to 375°. Peel the pears. Cut them in half lengthwise through the stem and scoop out the core and seeds; if possible leave the stem intact. Arrange the pear halves cut side down in a large skillet or flameproof baking dish. Pour 1/2 cup of the wine over the fruit. Scrape the vanilla seeds into the wine and nestle the bean among the pears. Dot the pears with the butter. Bring to a boil over moderate heat. Cover loosely with foil and bake 35 minutes, brushing occasionally with the wine. Turn the pears over, cover loosely and bake 15 minutes longer, brushing them frequently.

Set the skillet over moderate heat and add the remaining 1/4 cup wine. Simmer until the liquid is syrupy, about 3 minutes Turn the pears over to they are again cut-side-down and sprinkle with the sugar. Bake an additional 10 to 15 minutes, brushing them frequently, until they are tender and nicely glazed and the syrup is thick. If the wine is evaporating too quickly, add a little more wine or warm water to the baking dish to dissolve the caramelized juices into a thick glaze.

Set aside to cool slightly. Serve the pears warm. (You can re–warm the pears in a 250° oven about 1/2 hour before serving dessert. Add a little water to the pan if necessary to dissolve some of the juices so you can re–glaze the pears 2 or 3 times).

To serve, arrange two pear halves in each of four shallow soup bowls and brush them with some of the syrup. Place a scoop of vanilla ice cream in between them. At the table, drizzle about 1 teaspoon balsamic over each serving.

Click the image to read a companion article, How Sweet it Is ( Los Angeles Times Magazine, January 23, 2000)